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一样的铁匠铺，一样的午后和哨音，一样的老街、木板门、砖瓦房，在一块硬纸板上写下“出售大米”，用铁丝悬挂在墙上当做招牌…… 这里是全椒袁家湾老街，一个中国腹部 (内陆) 上的千年老街。 我们很多人，都是出自这样的老街――这种中国城镇的缩影，有点杂乱，但仍有炊烟。 有很多时候，不愿意谈自己的出生地也不愿意去想，但在另一个时空，在全椒，你好像与故乡和解了，你好像，回到了另一个并不是自己故乡的故乡。 其实是你与过去握手言和。在异乡的午后，从另一个城镇之上，在另一个街头，在与陌生人的对谈之中。 
全椒太平文化广场夜景 A night view of Quanjiao urban area The similar blacksmith shop, similar old streets, wooden doors, brick houses, and even the similar shop sign “rice for sale” hang on the wall... This is Yuanjiawan Old Street, a time-honored inland street in China. Many of us are from such old streets that are the epitomes of Chinese towns, a bit messy, but there is still cooking smoke. Sometimes people don‘t want to talk about their birthplace or even don’t want to think about it, but in Quanjiao, things are quite different, people love the place although it is not their hometown. In fact, you shake hands and make peace with the past when talking with strangers in the street of another town on the afternoon of a different day.
悠悠石板桥 A time-honored stone bridge 全椒以并不寻常的方式存在着，在这个省份，它的特别之处太多了，讽刺文学鼻祖吴敬梓在这里长大，唐朝名相张洎、明代“四大高僧”之一憨山大师的故居也在这里。 地处皖东江淮丘陵地带，北纬31°51′-32°15′，东经117°49′-118°25′，境内拥有三山、三湖两河，山水环绕，没有知道它们从哪一年开始，就存在于此，草木山石知道，它们不说话。 
“中国十大最美乡村”―― 黄栗树村 Huanglishu Village, one of the top 10 beautiful villages in China 而这个县，从西汉起就有了，古称椒邑，至今已有2200多年。 据《汉书•地理志》记载，汉高祖四年即公元前203年置全椒县，隶属淮南国；汉武帝元狩元年即公元前122年起，隶属九江郡；三国时全椒为吴魏争战之地，近60年废县；西晋时复置，《晋书 • 卷十五 • 地理下》记载隶属淮南郡；东晋、南北朝及隋朝开皇年间近300年全椒废县，据正史记载，县域内先后侨置南谯州、南谯郡、山桑县、嘉平县、北谯郡、北谯县、丰乐县，后改置临滁郡、滁水县；隋朝大业初年即公元605年起，复置全椒县。 
太平桥的早晨 Taiping Bridge in the morning 此后的1400余年，仅明朝洪武初期全椒县被短暂废除，县名一直沿用至今。 在这个区域内，你停留的每一分钟都带有柔软且如梦幻般的特质，那些山川和湖泊，如同你一直想去却未曾到过的未竟之地。 Quanjiao exists in an unusual way and has many attractions. Wu Jingzi, the founder of Chinese satiric literature, grew up here. It is also the hometown of Zhang Ji, a famous minister in the Tang Dynasty, and Master Hanshan, a well-known monk in the Ming Dynasty. Located in the eastern Anhui Jianghuai hilly area (31° 51'- 32° 15' northern latitude, 117 ° 49'- 118 ° 25' east longitude), It features three mountains, three lakes and two rivers. No one knows when they came into being. Maybe the plants, mountains and rocks know, but they won’t tell you. But the county has existed for over 2,200 years since the Western Han Dynasty and is known as Jiaoyi in ancient times. According to historical records, the county was first chartered in 203 B.C., belonging to Huainan State. Since 122 B.C., it belonged to Jiujiang Prefecture thereafter. During the Three Kingdoms period, it was a battlefield between Wu and Wei and the county administration was abandoned for nearly 60 years. It was re-established during the Western Jin Dynasty, belonging to Huainan Prefecture. Unfortunately, the administration was abandoned again for nearly 300 years in the following dynasties. The county was used as a resettlement for migrants from other prefectures and counties in history. In 605, the county was re-established again. Ever since then, the name of the county has been used up to now except a short period in the early Ming Dynasty. Every minute you stay in this county is soft and fantastic. The mountains and lakes are like places you've always wanted but never visited. 
全椒太平阁晨光 Twilight over Taiping Pavilion in Quanjiao 我偏爱“椒”字的植物属性，作为一种芸香科植物，落叶灌木或小乔木，它莫名生出一种小而坚忍的气质。 然而全椒的“椒”字，是山巅、山丘之义，这是由全椒的地形地貌特征决定的。 全椒简称“椒”，多见“椒邑”“椒地”“椒民”“椒俗”等语。 两汉时期，全椒境内的襄河水系并不发达，滁河沿岸的地域也不在全椒境内，属于当时与全椒县相邻的阜陵县地界。 也就是说，汉初为全椒命名时，县域之内几乎全是低矮山地和冈丘，全椒因此而得名。明·泰昌版《全椒县志·舆地志》“山岗”目下夹注云：“椒，小山也。全椒小山多，故名也。” 
丘陵间的风力发电机 Wind turbines in the hilly land 在古老的传说中，全椒地域以“椒”标识。南宋历史地理学家罗泌所撰《路史》卷二十六国名纪三高阳氏后列有椒国，经沧海桑田分封割削之变，至春秋时已为楚之“椒邑”。《左传》《国语》中均有楚大夫伍举食邑于椒的记载，古人以邑为氏，故伍举史称“椒举”，其子称“椒鸣”。 “全椒”地名系根据地形地貌特征，沿袭古国古邑之名。至今全椒的方言中仍保留有大量汉语古音。 
全椒周边多丘陵地形，草场丰茂 Hilly land and lush meadows around Quanjiao I am fond of the property of the rutaceous plants, a kind of deciduous shrub or pygmy tree. It is small but persistent. However, the word “Jiao” in the name of the county stands for mountain top and hill, which is determined by the topographic characteristics of the county. Quanjiao is called Jiao in brief, the word appears in Jiaodi (land of Jiao), Jiaomin (Jiao people), and Jiaosu (Jiao folk custom). During the Han Dynasty, the Xianghe River in the county was not well harnessed, and the land along the Chuhe River was not in the county but belonged to Fuling County. When people chose the name for the county in the early Han Dynasty, they based on the topographic conditions of small hills and hilly land. According to the local annals, the county was thus named because there were too many small hills. In ancient legends, the land of the county was always ear-marked with “Jiao”. In a geographic book compiled in the Southern Song Dynasty appears a “Jiao State”. In the Spring and Autumn period, “Jiaoyi” was used as the name of the county in the Chu State. In ancient times, people adopted the names of places as their family names. Therefore Wu Ju, a senior official of the Chu State was also called Jiao Ju, and his son, Jiao Ming. The name of the county comes from the topographic features and originates from the ancient state and prefecture. Up to now, there are still ancient pronunciations in Quanjiao dialect. 
吴敬梓纪念馆 Wu Jingzi Memorial Museum 这里是《儒林外史》作者吴敬梓的故乡，他三十三岁时离开这里去南京。吴敬梓的生父名雯延，吴敬梓是他的三个儿子中最小的一个，自幼便被过继给长房吴霖起为嗣。 吴霖起曾任江苏赣榆县教谕，在吴敬梓考取秀才的雍正元年(1723年)死去。吴敬梓自小聪明过人，14岁起，便因跟随父亲到各处做官，接触到官场。 吴霖起死后，不少人觊觎遗产，因吴敬梓是嗣子，便给了他们以可乘之机，于是发生了“兄弟参商，宗族诟谇”的争产纠纷，甚至是亲族冲入家中攫夺其财产。 虽然最终吴敬梓继承了父亲的遗产，但因争产之事深受刺激。此时的吴敬梓无心做官，对虚伪的人际关系又深感厌恶，亦无意进取功名，他开始挥霍遗产。 可以说，他的“败家”，是对他人争产一事的讽刺：在你们看来无比重要的，在我看来却不值一提。 
吴敬梓故居正门 The main entrance of Wu Jingzi's former residence 他以声色犬马的生活方式与世俗子弟划清界限。 胡适曾说，吴的家产是在秦淮嫖掉的。但正是这样“泥沙一掷金一担”地败家，他才能摆脱与宗族之间的联系，从贵族降为贫民，以纯粹的心境进入到文学创作之中。 Quanjiao is the hometown of Wu Jingzi, the author of The Scholars. Wu Jingzi was the youngest son of the family and his uncle Wu Linqi adopted him in his early childhood. When he was 33, he left for Nanjing. Wu Linqi served as a military instructor in Ganyu County, Jiangsu. He died in 1723. Wu Jingzi was smart at his young age and became aware of the officialdom when following his father in his official transfer. After Wu Lin's death, many people coveted the heritage because Wu Jingzi was an adopted son. Therefore, there were disputes over the property among his close relatives, who even rushed into the house to seize the assets. Although Wu Jingzi eventually inherited the legacy, he was deeply upset by the dispute and became no longer interested in an official career. Because he was tired of the hypocritical interpersonal relationship, he began to squander the legacy. It can be said that his dissipation of the legacy is a satire on the struggle by others for the property: what important in your opinion is nothing in my mind. In fact, he distinguished himself from the mundane life by his carnal pleasures. Hu Shi once said that Wu Jingzi fucked off the family property in whorehouses. After his fall in life from rich to poor, he got rid of the connections with his clan and concentrated on his literary creation... 
吴敬梓故居遗园雪景 A snow view of Yiyuan Garden in Wu Jingzi's former residence 全椒县城的袁家湾，是个“城中岛”。古老的襄河穿城而过，四面环水的袁家湾，有四座古桥：积玉桥、涌金桥、红栏桥、拖板桥。 积玉桥，全椒古代第一名桥，始建于汉初，宋嘉佑二年（1057）建石桥，明代多次复修。 长长的积玉桥，横跨于襄河之上。积玉桥凝聚的是儒学精神，古代的全椒，凡是成为秀才的，要戴花从积玉桥上，到涌金桥下，然后去学宫拜老师，拜孔子牌位。
全椒老铁匠铺 A traditional smithy in Quanjiao 涌金桥，这座三孔石拱桥，始建于明朝崇祯年间，是当地名人金光辰和县令孔尚则主持建造的，又名奎光桥。涌金桥几经毁损几经复修，仍屹立于襄河之上。 挨着的是红栏桥，原名州门桥，始建于北宋绍圣三年（1096），由高志密出资建造，初名“高公桥”，民国20年（1931）重修，如今为交通要道，桥上车水马龙人来人往。
正月十六走太平 Taiping Fair on the 16th day of the first lunar month 走过积玉桥，远远看到一座城楼似的古建筑，这就是著名的奎光楼。始建于明隆庆六年（1572年），为倡导城民尊经重儒，取名尊经阁。明万历十六、清顺治十年、康熙四年多次重修。清嘉庆年间重修时，为彰显城民励学重教，更名奎光楼。 奎光楼是椒城学风的发祥地，为明代王阳明的讲坛，吴敬梓也常于楼上读书作文。他曾在这里写道：三十年河东，三十年河西，莫欺少年穷…… 袁家湾老街。当初，这一带生活着包括吴敬梓先祖在内的几大儒林家族。如今，糖坊、裁缝铺、篾器行、铁匠铺、豆腐坊……一代又一代的人在这里繁衍生息，一些人可能一辈子不愿走出一条街，与古老的手艺与器物对峙一生。 
被襄河环绕的全椒袁家湾老街 Yuanjiawan old street block surrounded by the Xianghe River Yuanjiawan in Quanjiao urban area is an “island in the city”, through which flows the Xianghe River.This water-surrounded area has four ancient bridges: Jiyu, Yongjin, Honglan, and Tuoban. Jiyu Bridge, the No.1 ancient bridge of Quanjiao, was a rebuilt stone bridge in 1057 and restored many times in the Ming Dynasty. The long Jiyu Bridge spans the Xianghe River. In ancient time, successful candidates in the imperial examination at the county level would go from this bridge to Yongjin Bridge, wearing flowers, and then pay homage to their teachers and Confucius. Yongjin Bridge, a stone arch bridge with three apertures, was built in the Ming Dynasty by Jin Guangchen, a rich local personage, and Kong Shangze, the then county mayor. The bridge has been repaired several times in history. Next to it is Honglan Bridge built in 1096 in the Northern Song Dynasty with the fund donated by Gao Zhimi and was rebuilt in 1931. Now it remains as a key part of the major thoroughfare in the county. After passing Jiyu Bridge, an ancient building like a gate tower comes into view. It was built in 1572 in the Ming Dynasty and named Zunjingge to promote respect to Confucianism. It had been renovated several times in history. After the latest renovation in the Qing Dynasty, it was renamed Kuiguanglou to highlight the importance people attach to education. Kuiguanglou is the birthplace of the local literature style. It was used as a lecture room by Wang Yangming in the Ming Dynasty and a study by Wu Jingzi who wrote here the famous lines: life is changeable in prosperity and declines; never deceive the young when they are poor now... The old street in Yuanjiawan is the place where lived several famed families of Confucian scholars, including ancestors of Wu Jingzi. Today, the street is lined up with sugar mills, tailors' shops, bamboo ware shops, blacksmiths, and tofu shops... some people might prefer to stay there for their whole life amid ancient crafts and historical articles.
来源｜安徽画报
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发表于 2019-4-27 02:14:27
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